Category Archives: Surfer Grrrl Stories

Stories and profiles of the rad surfer grrrls I meet on my journeys

Best last day in Rocinha ever!

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With Andrea Lopes, surf champion and coach extraordinaire!

With Andrea Lopes, surf champion and coach extraordinaire!

My last day in Rocinha was my best yet.  To start out the day with a bang, I had a  surf lesson with the former world tour surfer and Brazilian women’s champion, Andrea Lopes.  You can imagine how excited I was for this!

To make it even better, one of the older girls from the surf school Bia had asked to come with me to meet Andrea and surf with her.  I was really excited that not just me, but also Bia too, was going to meet a great role model.

Andrea was super cool and fun and friendly, and I learned so much from her in one lesson that I wish I could have stayed and had 5 more.  She filmed me a lot, and also surfed with me for a little while.  She showed me just a couple times how to get into a better position for waves coming up, and somehow, whatever she did really clicked, and I felt like I finally understood a positioning concept that I had been trying to get for a long time.   She pushed me hard and I was exhausted, and I thought our lesson was done when she called me out of the water to do a summary of the things I needed to work on, and then she said, ok 20 more minutes of

With Bia, before the lesson

With Bia, before the lesson

going hard.  And I though, oh gosh, this is going to be tough.  And then she said, you shouldn’t give 100 %, and I thought, oh phew, that’s good, I am really tired.  And then she said, you should give 110%.  Ha!!  So I sucked it up, and went out, and surfed real hard for 20 minutes, and totally put my new positioning skills to work and caught a couple waves just perfect and a bunchmore less perfectly.   Yay!!

After my surf lesson, I had a party on the beach with the kids from the surf school.  We skimboarded and surfed and played in the white water and polished off many bags of candy and cookies. The surf was too big for the younger kids to surf, but I went in with Bocão.  The waves looked exactly like they did on the Gabriel Medina day, and in an awesome marker of my progress, I did not feel afraid at all, and got myself into perfect position to catch 3 really nice

With the Rocinha surf school crew at the beach

With the Rocinha surf school crew at the beach

big rights.  On the last one, which was the biggest and longest, the peanut gallery of local surf guys standing at the sea wall drinking beers cheered for me.    I thought that Andrea Lopes would be proud.

That night was music class at the surf school, and Delão helped the kids write their own rap verses.  The kids at the school really like this one hook of one of my surfing raps, which starts “Put your hands up.”  For the past few weeks, when I see the kids on the streets in Rocinha or walking to the beach, they will start rapping “Put your hands up!”  The only problem is that since the rest of the hook is in English, they have a hard time saying it.  So tonight, Delão helped the kids write their own verses in Portuguese about their surfing life in Rocinha and we recorded it as a group. So fun!  I rewrote my own verses to be about Rocinha, and I can’t wait to put it all together for

With Danielo, a very special little friend who gave me these flowers while we were walking back from the beach

With Danielo, a very special little friend who gave me these flowers while we were walking back from the beach

a music video!

After music class was my last samba rehearsal with the Rocinha Samba School.  My friends came down to the beach and danced with me, and afterwards we had drinks and slacklined by my favorite beach kiosk in front of the surfing break.

Thank you Rocinha for an amazing stay.  It hurts to leave, but this neighborhood will always hold a little piece of my heart, and I know I will come back here someday. Thanks especially to Bocão and the Rocinha Surf School for making me feel so welcome.

Girls’ day at the beach!

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Less Corrupcao

The graffiti on the wall says, “Less corruption, More education.” And more surfing!
My favorite picture from my travels thus far!

One of my favorite days in Salvador was towards the end, when I went to the beach with two amazing women, Jazz and Adriana.

After one month surfing in Salvador, I still hadn’t met any other girl surfers.  This made me rather sad — I was told that this was partially due to the fact that the waves weren’t very good, and most of the girl surfers were down in Itacare where the waves are much better.  But still…

Jazz, who arrived from Oakland, CA the night before, and Adriana who lives down the road,

Heading to the beach with Jazz

Heading to the beach with Jazz

were willing to be my surfing companions on my last day in Salvador.  Jazz who is already a body surfer in California, braved the wild conditions and the steep shore break to try surfing on a stand up board.  As lu

With Adriana and Jazz.

With Adriana and Jazz.

ck would have it, we also met another Bahian surfer girl that day, Lorena, who was totally stoked to make our acquaintances.  Thanks to Adriana for taking some stellar pictures and video…

Heading towards our possibly ill-advised surf lesson. Jazz deserves a medal of honor.

Heading towards our possibly ill-advised surf lesson. Jazz deserves a medal of honor.

With Lorena, by Bahian surf sistah!

With Lorena, by Bahian surf sistah!

In the water with a world champion!

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Another amazing moment.  So today I decided to head to Praia Mole, because it is just so pretty in the late afternoon.  I am on a 2 week program of “taking it easy” after an episode of doing too many pull-ups.  I probably should have kept walking to the next beach over, which had smaller waves, more appropriate for taking it easy.  But the waves on Mole looked so fun!  I made a promise to myself and my tired shoulders that I would take it slow, even if it meant not catching much (which is exactly what it meant!).  Sometimes, just being out there is a gift in itself, and today was one of those days.

But I had an extra treat in store.  As I was floating around amidst the other surfers, another woman paddled up to join the line-up.  And it was none other than Jacqueline Silva — who, for those who don’t know, is a super amazing pro surfer who is on the ASP WORLD TOUR!!  (you have to be one of the best 18 surfers IN THE WORLD to be on this tour).  That’s a picture of her on the left!  You can also check out her website here.

She paddled right next to me, and was so nice and friendly when I nervously and excitedly introduced myself.  Then she proceeded to SHRED like crazy just about every wave that came her way.  It was completely amazing and inspiring to see her in action, and also really cool to encounter someone who is SO damn good at what she does and still totally open and kind, and willing to talk to a random American stuttering in Portuguese in the water next to her.  Maybe I can get her to be in one of my music videos?!

Midnight Skate Session with Dani – super Skater, Poet, Teacher, Mom, Philosopher

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Elis, age 4, surfer in training

Yesterday I hung out with my friend Dani, who is a super radical and inspirational skater, surfer, high school teacher, mom, poet, and rapper. (You can check out her poetry blog by clicking here.) Dani is getting her masters degree in philosophy, studying the relationships between human knowledge and the natural world. She also regularly blows open the minds of her high school students at the “demonstration” public school where she teaches philosophy (how cool that Brazilian high school students are learning philosophy as part of their curriculum!).   I met her at a potluck dinner where, after some fun conversations about my project and Dani’s previous life adventures rapping in Sao Paulo, we decided to write some raps.   When we finally met up to do some writing one afternoon on the shady lawn of the University, I felt that wonderful feeling you get when you know you’ve found a kindred spirit.

Yesterday I went to her lovely house in a small town in the southern part of the island.  Her husband, Zazo (also a surfer), grew up on the street where they currently live, although he told me that when he was little there was no street and the whole thing was a forest.  They have two kids, Caio and Elis, who are wondrous.  Elis (age 4) likes to spend her time scaling the wall of the living room, standing atop the window sill, and launching herself onto a mattress below.  She already calls herself a surfer and when the family goes on walks, she rides a skateboard, pulled along with the help of her dad.  Caio, (age 10) has got the 100 mile an hour brain of a video game designer and/or backyard inventor, likes to talk like darth vader, generously shares everything he has (including chocolate, which to me is extraordinary for a 10 year old), and cares for his little sister like a second dad.

Enjoying the view with Caio

After a yummy spaghetti lunch, we hiked to the top of a forested mountain from which we could see much of the southern island, including the vast sand dune ecosystem of Joaquina.  And after the kids went to sleep, Dani, Zazo, and I took out skateboards and went “street surfing” down one of the best skating streets on the island Rua Pau de Canela, perfectly smooth, very long, and downhill all the way.

Dani who is an ex-competitive skater had some sick moves.  I was just stoked to be on a board after many years of not being on a board.  I scared and thrilled the bejeezus out of myself just by  shooting the not so steep hill.  Here’s some very dark footage of us having much fun, taken by Zazo.  Thanks Dani, Zazo, Caio, and Elis for a perfect day!

Surfer Girl Festival

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Recently I went on a very exciting surf adventure with two of my new friends, Aloha Maciel and Marina Rezende who are AMAZING surfers!  (Aloha, got her very cool surfing name from her Dad, who it turns out wasn’t thinking at all about surfing when she was born, but rather about the Elvis movie Blue Hawaii!)

Aloha and Marina were competing in the first ever all girls surf competition in Brazil, just north of Florianopolis in the state of Parana, and they invited me to go along.

I took some fun videos of the journey, but can’t yet edit them since my computer is still in the hands of Applecare Brazil.  (Unfortunately, after waiting 2 weeks for a new harddrive to be mailed from the U.S., I have just been informed that it actually needs a new logic board! Argggh.)  In the meantime, here are some pics from the journey.

Setting off in the early morning

A flat tire slows us down, but Aloha is on it!

Waiting for the ferry boat to take us to Guaratuba

The awesome woman who ran the “borracharia” where we got our tire fixed

The announcement booth for the contest. Pink is not my favorite color, but it was cool to see dudes running around in pink Surfer Girl Festival T-shirts all day.

On the day of the contest, the beach belonged to the girls

Competitors warming up before the start of the contest

Aloha gets her board ready for her first heat

Aloha in action! The waves were pretty small but the girls managed to get some good moves in.

The winners! (Thanks for the pic Tanapraia. My camera battery died). Marina (far right) came in first and Aloha came in third! I rode back starstruck in the car of champions…